I am seeing a lot of bees – What do I do?

Now if this week hasn’t been wild, I don’t know what has! For us Texans this cold was, to be charitable, an adventure and interesting experience.

European Honeybees, aka the bee you are mostly likely to encounter and the bees that us beekeepers raise, are more accustomed to cold weather and have specifically adapted to stay alive and active in the snow. It is our native bees that really suffer during cold snaps if they have already woken up from hibernation so if you see some bees out right now it’s probably a honeybee!

Hungry Hungry Honeybees!

Have you been seeing honeybees more than normal? Are they around your house when you’ve never seen them there before? Well despite their ability to survive long winters these bees are HUNGRY. Being in the cold forces bees to consume more of their honey stores in order to covert that food into the energy they need to warm their hives. Bees try and keep their brood at 95 °F and if brood is not present, they will conserve energy and will allow their hive temperature to fall down to 55 °F though they generally will keep it well above that temperature.

In the Rio Grande Valley the last frost of the year has generally already past and the winter crops are near harvest while the spring crops are being planted. Mid-February is the perfect time for managed and wild hives start producing more brood to gear up for the early March honey flow.

More bees and more babies mean more food is required to keep those bees alive. While the temperatures are cold they use up lots of food to keep warm and are unable to forage. In south Texas there are some flowering plants nearly all year around, but between the frost killing them and being unable to go outside for so long the honeybees are desperate for food.

So if you see bees investigating your house then do not worry! It’s a compliment and means your house smells really delicious! Valentine’s day just passed and that means many people still have fresh cut flowers in their house and even if you can’t smell them from the outside that doesn’t mean bees can’t! Floral perfumes and house cleaners, fresh or dried flowers, and sweet treats are all things that can attract bees to your house to find food.

Seeing bees around the house is no reason to worry and you can easily trap and release a bee that found her way inside. An easy way to keep bees away from the house if you are worried about children getting stung is to bribe them by putting out some sugary water in a shallow container as far away from your house as possible. You don’t have to put much, but they will be more likely to go there instead of keep investigating the home.

How to feed the bees:

Generally it is unnecessary to feed the feral bees, and you certainly don’t want to accidentally feed a beekeeper’s bees, however after this freeze putting out some sugar water is a great way to help all pollinators and keep bees away from high traffic areas of your property.

Simply warm up some water (DO NOT BOIL) and dissolve equal part sugar to create a 1:1 water/sugar ratio syrup. Place that in a shallow plate or pan, preferable with some sticks or rocks to prevent bees from drowning, in an area away from kids or pets.

Please do not feed honey, be it store bought or from a farmer’s market, to bees! There are a lot of pathogens that can spread from colony to colony found in honey. These diseases don’t affect humans in the slightest but things such as American Foulbrood can destroy a whole apiary.

The only time you need to call a beekeeper is if you suspect that you have an established hive and see a lot of bees coming in and out of an area consistently or if you see a large swarm of bees resting on or near the house.

Example of the entrance of an established hive. When you see lots of bees coming in and out of a spot like this especially if they have pollen then that is a good sign you may need a beekeeper come and remove the potential hive.
Small honeybee swarm resting on a tree. A beekeeper can collect these bees safely instead of killing them!

No! You DON’T want that cut out honey!

While honey is delicious and a perfect addition for any treat, you absolutely do not want to honey we cut out during a bee removal. Be it from a house, shed, tree, or metal equipment, nobody can be sure what that honey has been exposed to.

One of the most common contaminates we see in and around feral beehives is rodent feces. It is more frequently found in the walls of occupied houses. Rats and mice love to eat honey and bee larva so will live in the same area as a hive. They poop indiscriminately wherever they are and so feces are on and around the honeycomb.

Similarly, we always encounter roaches no matter where the hive is. We’ve seen and smelled cockroaches in every single bee removal we’ve done. Like the rodents, bugs will infiltrate a hive to eat honey and if they remain under the radar, they will not cause the bees to attack them. Along with just walking on and eating the comb, they also leave droppings everywhere and can be found stuck to the comb.

Building material and other physical or chemical contaminates are also a concern. Not only do we find dirt in places such as sheds or even houses, we also never know exactly what a building was made from. There are several houses we’ve encountered that were old enough to need to worry about lead based paint and asbestos. We even were warned about asbestos for one removal and wore respirators to protect ourselves. Homeowners often utilize chemical bug foggers and other pesticides inside their house which may seep into the area the hive is, if not haven use chemicals directly on a hive.

Fiberglass insulation is well known for being a tasty snack! Most of our removals involve touching insulation and thankfully we wear full body bee suits and gloves. We’d never want clients to consume honey that was near insulation becuase it can be dangerous.

At the end of the day bottling the cut out honey violates health and food codes. Any honey from an uninspected hive can not be sold and certainly can not be used for human consumption. Effective on September 1, 2015 Texas passed Senate Bill 1766 which specifically states that small honey producers can only bottle and sell honey from a hive that is “owned and managed by that beekeeper.”  While it is illegal to sell “rescue” or cut out honey, it is equally unethical to even give away honey to people who intend to eat it. While the comb may look clean, you just never know what it as been exposed to and can get people sick, especially younger or older folks.

We have seen other beekeepers give honey out to clients as an incentive to choose their business or just to be nice, however we in good conscious can not give people gifts that could potentially make others sick. Local, raw honey can be pricey but it’s not worth the risks!

In Texas we have a set of laws called Food Cottage Laws that allow for small businesses and individuals sell select types of products produced out of their homes without needing the home inspected by the Department of Health. Texas also has rules and regulations on how honey is bottled and labeled. Please consult with the resources below to learn more about these topics and how they relate to beekeepers.

Texas A&M AgriLife Research Texas Apiary Inspection Service – General Honey Information

Texas Cottage Food Law

Texas Ag Code Title 6, Subtitle A, Chapter 131 – Bees and Honey

This honey may look beautiful and it probably tastes just as great, there is no reason to risk you or your familiy’s health for some cut out honey!

First Spring Check 2021

Brand new, freshly hatched baby bee ready for spring!

This past weekend on Super Bee Sunday, we got to have our first real check for our over-wintered hives. It is always a bit nerve wracking going into the new bee season because it is less of matter of “did I lose hives?” and more of “how many did I lose?” and that question is the most frightening one.

As full time bee removers, sometimes we just don’t get a lot of time to be beekeepers so days like this is very refreshing even after a very, albeit expected, winter. In this particular yard we have roughly 40 hives, 28 of them were given to us last summer, and nearly every single one of them had been requeened in September. We used two different queen breeders for our stock this year and while I have notes written to compare and contrast them, I’ll refrain from naming the breeders as I’ve not had time to do more observations.

These hives had a huge problem with cross comb in the honey supers which resulted in a lot of bleeding comb and loss of honey. We requeened and changed boxes in September towards the end of the flower blooms even here in deep south Texas. Due to the loss of food stores, the hives went into winter weaker than they otherwise would have, however they were left with more than enough to over-winter successfully. The real danger? Robbing. Any apiary larger than a single hive is at danger for robbing, and even a single hive is at danger from feral hives.

Example of how cross comb works. The pink lines are where the empty frames were. The hives we were given had frames with no foundations, which only works if the beekeeper does a lot of work to insure the bees create the comb IN the frame rather than through it.

What does this has to do with the now? Well of course it is just one factor in why some of our hives did not survive this winter despite it being so mild. It was a mild winter at least until this week! We treated varroa, but between these hives being basically feral, potential robbing, and disturbing the whole hive with regicide and a coup, it is unsure why we lost the hives we lost. Of the few, most of them were hives I had already written in my notes as a potential over winter loss, so in all we came out better than I had speculated!

Going through this newly requeened hives was such a pleasure! The bees we got from California were so big and gold, while the queens from Georgia were the more similar to the familiar dark and small type bee we associate with our local ferals. When you deal with only Africanized Honeybees it can be a shock to deal with nice bees for once! These ladies didn’t fly, try to sting me, nor did the queen try to hide! One even let me watch her lay and egg, which is always amazing to see.

Sadly, there is also work involved in beekeeping! I know that’s a surprise, but sadly the bees don’t keep themselves. Several of the hives ate through most of their reserves, and many others did not fill up a lot of frames at all. Any hives with an abundance of empty space had the upper deep removed and the remaining honey and brood rearranged so that the food is as close as possible to the babies. Thankfully that foresight will be helpful for those hives to weather this cold front!

What a great day in the office!

Other than that, the bees that remained look fairly strong! They were given some fake, substitute patties and will be given some sugar syrup once the weather warms up. So far results for our hives have been positive and hopefully this trend will keep on all year!

Quick Guide to a Bee Free Home!

With the first real cold front of the season blowing on in, it’s time for the bees to start really winding down for the year. While abnormally warm and wet seasons can affect the behavior of bees, generally a colony will spend the winter clustered together keeping themselves and the queen warm. They will eat through some, or all, of their food resources and raise very little brood until spring. Swarming season is just about complete, though Mother Nature often goes again the ideas of man, so it’s not unheard of to find bee swarms between October and February in the Rio Grande Valley and other places across the south.

If you’ve had to hire a beekeeper to remove a colony from your home, you already know how troublesome the whole process is! The best way to remove bees from your home is to simply prevent them from getting there in the first place. Bees are wonderful animals to own, so long as they are in a managed hive box. Preparing for swarm season during the winter can help prevent bees from establishing a colony on your property.

A honeybee only requires a hole 3/16th of an inch (roughly 5 millimeter) wide to fit in. If one bee can fit in, a whole colony can. Think of a pea, or the tip of your pinky; if you walk around the outside of a structure and could fit either item in that hole: seal it immediately.

Pink line indicates on a ruler how wide 3/16th of an inch is. Please note that the ruler will not be to scale, and the green bar indicates how large the average credit card is in comparison.

As discussed in a previous post, all feral bees in the RGV are Africanized Honeybees (AHB) and they slightly different house hunting requirements. While the average European Honeybee prefers a large cavity of around 31 liters (8 gallons) in volume, the Africanized honeybee colony will be happy with as little as 13 liters (3.4 gallons). What does this mean for the average homeowner? Feral bees are MORE than happy to occupy the soffits of your house, inside a wall, under a shed, or even in an overturned pot in your overgrown garden!

When bees create a nest, even after it’s removed, the old smell of comb, honey, and pheromones will remain. In the bee world it is a giant, neon sign saying, “Perfect Home Here!” and a hive will be more likely to move into the same exact spot, or at least close by. Repairing this area is very important. If the bee can’t get into the space, then how good it smells won’t matter.

Large cavities can be filled with spray foam or expanding insulation; however, these can ONLY be used to fill in gaps. Bees are strong animals capable of chewing through spray foam in just a few short hours. We’ve even seen hives dig themselves out after somebody sprayed their hive entrances with spray foam. The only really effective way to seal off gaps is with silicone caulking. The silicone is too chewy for a bee to bite or rip apart. During any construction or renovation project, the best bet is to ensure there are no gaps that need filling in the first place, but a the next best is to completely fill and seal any hole with caulking, wood putty, or even concrete and resin.

For motorhomes, trailer houses, and pier and beam houses, a homeowner needs to take extra care because bees will happily create an open-air nest under your house. Ideally it is best if the house is on a solid foundation, but barring that, creating a net barrier that is too small for a bee to enter will help reduce the risk of getting bees under the home. The net could be made with any strong, relatively tight knit material such as window screening. Unfortunately, because netting is easily damaged, it’s best to inspect this area, and any other area in your property, on a regular basis.

The last major area we find bees are under sheds. If the structure is not placed on a concrete pad and sealed, it creates an inviting home for feral bees. Often times metal skirting around the shed will have breathing or weep holes that can easily be blocked from insects by inserting a scrunched up piece of window screening. If a shed does not require weep holes, a beautiful way to ensure insects can’t live under the floor is by putting a raised garden bed around the area. While honeybees can dig, they are generally unwilling to dig out holes while looking for new homes unless they already know it’s there.

Last but not least! If you own any property you are wishing to develop, or haven’t maintained in a while, it is advisable that you do a detailed inspection of the area. Loud machinery can agitate feral hives and we hear countless stories of clients getting attacked by bees while mowing or cutting down trees because there was a colony in a soffit or shed on the property. Of course safety is the most important part here! You do not want to literally stumble into a nest. While honey bees do not like living on or near the ground, it is not uncommon to find them in a pile of wood, a log, or inside forgotten containers.

As always if you need any help with bees or even bee proofing your property it is always a good idea to get in contact with a local beekeeper for advice!

Africanized Honeybees in the Rio Grande Valley

Africanized Honey Bees (AHB) are very similar to non-Africanized bees in many ways, however once a hive reaches a large size the differences become quite apparent. Visually it is nearly impossible to tell the difference between high content AHB, a bee with low AHB genetic content, and a pure bred of any other Apis Melferia sub-species. Without genetic testing it is nearly impossible to confirm the genetics, yet we can be certain that any feral beehive or beehive that has been allowed to requeen themselves will have some level of AHB genetics.

Vacuuming up the bees before we even opened the wall. At this stage they had not ramped up; this is only a small portion of the bees that came out.

Today we encountered a hive that had been allowed to not only live, but thrive, on this homeowner’s property for several years. Being as industrious as any bee should, these bees had created a nest several feet long and contained 200+ pounds of honey. The first sting of the day occurred while we were just standing outside the hive; a bee went straight for the noggin and suits were immediately donned. We got our tools set up inside the shed and started vacuuming. Simply being inside the shed set these bees off on high alert and they started pouring out of their nest. Standing there we could see bees coming out of the ceiling right above us. Right next to us. A foot away from us. Okay over 2 feet away from us? Watching their activity made it so obvious that we were dealing with a monster of a hive! We could already tell roughly how large it was by the propolis and wax dripping from in-between the wood boards. If there was an “oh shit” moment, it was then.

But the bees weren’t satisfied with their performance. The longer we stood and vacuumed, the more ramped up they became. Pure bred European Honeybees only send out 10-20 guard bees on average, at least when we are discussing established hive boxes and equivalent sized feral nests. One of those differences between AHB and European bees is that guard reaction. An Africanized hive will quickly send hundreds, even over a thousand, bees to defend the hive. That’s the key, though, it is a DEFENSE. A European bee might only be mildly disturbed and then forget and forgive in a few hours, but an AHB colony has a memory that rivals the best of us. They’ll hold a grudge for several days, going after any perceived threat more vigorously than they would have before a disturbance.

The white comb is newer, but the darker comb has been there for years.

Africanized bees that we know and love in the Rio Grande Valley are descended from an experimental cross bred of the hardy East African Lowland honey bee (A. m. Scutellata) and the calmer Italian honey bee (A. m. ligustica) and the Iberian honey bee (A. m. iberiensis). While both the Italian and Iberian subspecies have been worked by beekeepers for thousands of years, the East African bee has been hunted for thousand of years by tribes, honey badgers and other wildlife thus they have evolved to be highly defensive and quick to anger. East African bees had more predators that would completely destroy hives, and their disposition shows.

In the United States, AHB provide robust genetics that allow them to thrive through drought, pests, and have the ability to find a home where regular European honey bees might not. They are not the evil “killer bees” that the media has perpetuated, and in the honey capital of Mexico they are even preferred as they are far superior at honey production.

However, their highly defensive nature does make them dangerous. “Killer bee” is a bad moniker, yet they didn’t get the name for nothing. Once an AHB hive gets bigger, has more babies to protect, more food to protect, their defensiveness gets kicked into overdrive. Today was a textbook case in Africanized defensive procedures. If it wasn’t for the fact that this house had a decent amount of greenery and we were working inside of a shed, it would have been possible that people or animals in the area could have also been attacked.

Bee removals of Africanized honey bees work very similar to a bee removal in a place without any AHB genetics except a beekeeper needs to be aware of when a removal will be too dangerous. It is a sad fact that AHBs have been responsible for the death of some people and animals.

An example of a glove after dealing with AHBs. All the white bits are stingers with venom sacks, and this is only a small portion of the stings. Most of them did not remain embedded in the glove.

Today we had to make to make the unfortunate, but necessary, decision to kill these bees. They were too big and too mean to even relocate to our apiary, and that’s assuming they didn’t harm any of the neighbors during the removal themselves. We hadn’t even exposed the hive yet, and the bees were attacking so hard even the stings hurt more than normal. There are a few small behaviors that signify whether a hive is going to be too dangerous to let live: how many come out of the hive with minimal disturbance, how hard they try sting you, and one harder to notice behavior. This last action is watching HOW they try to sting. It’s easiest to see on the mask of a bee suit. Most of the time, bees trying to get at the face will fly up against and walk about a mask. When bees are biting the mask, unable to be physically removed from the mask without killing the bee, and they make this little “C” shape where they are grabbing the mask with their mandibles AND trying to push their stinger through the net, that is when you can gauge that this hive is probably too risky.

These bees exhibited all of these behaviors and it was not shocking given how large the hive was.

We are always thrilled when people say that they want the bees to be removed safely and that they feel bad about possibly hurting them, however allowing a feral hive of bees to remain on a property not only risks the homeowner but also endangers any neighbors, too. Had these bees been removed two or three years ago, maybe even a few months ago during winter, they would have probably made it out alive. Well established hives are always more defensive, whether they be Africanized or not, but here in the RGV we need to make sure that any feral colonies are relocated as soon as they are noticed.

Bees are great to have in a backyard but having feral bees on a structures is just not safe. If you want to have bees on your property you can always contact a local beekeeper, beekeeping association, or even the local agricultural extension as they should know of at least a few keepers in the area.